Friday, June 17, 2011

Late Post

Oh man. I don't know why I do this. It's been about two and a half months since I left Jason in VT and I haven't yet finished recounting the tale. Bad blogger! Back in your cage!
With my train home scheduled for Friday we had a couple of days left to explore before taking my leave. We decided a brewery tour was in order and traced a route towards Burlington so as to maximize our exposure to craft brew. The passage north proved blandly rural but it was nice to be rolling steady again, just watching the world blaze by. We stopped at a brewery called Otter Creek that offered, among other things, a sample of my first dark IPA. I'm not normally a fan of IPAs, too hoppy for me but it was a nice treat. The bar keep lined up a round of 6 4oz samplers of our choosing, ranging from an organic honey wheat through mild nut brown and into deep chocolate stout. We drank them a bit quickly, not realizing that we just quaffed the equivalent of two beers in a half hour. We stepped outside where I realized I was a bit tipsy. Wooooo!
Next stop, Bobcat Cafe, in a small town whose name I've now forgot. Quaint little place built into the slope of a mountain. As luck would have it we sat down directly adjacent to the Brew Master, a kindly fellow who had plenty of insights into his own craft (no shit.) I told him of my love for nut browns which prompted him to tap a cask of product in progress. He explained how this shit here was settling with that shit there or something that was completely lost upon me but, awesome, I was treated to a unique and personalized beer sipping experience. Can't ask for much more. Again we drank a bit fast. This time, however, upon leaving the joint our step was drowsy. Jason decided he needed to cool it a bit before taking the wheel again. We walked down to the river, hopped around on the rocks, and sang songs at the top of our lungs into the roaring water. By and by we returned to the road.
We pulled into Burlington just before sundown and promptly set about exploring the place. Burlington is a shining example of the kind of hippy towns scattered across the nation that draws out the freaks. Places such as Madison, Eugene, and, allegedly, Austin TX that cater to a young, free thinking crowd that wants live music, organic grub and head shops. As night falls we decide some live music is in order. We duck into a promising spot and settle in. It turns out to be some kinda electro-psychedelia. Not bad. Upstairs a rowdy crowd moshes to some drunken irish type rabble rousers with an accordion, a violin, and other such non-sense. All fun and games but at the back of the mind we ponder where to sleep.
Eventually we settle on sleeping in Jason's truck. Drunk as we are we manage but damn was it cramped. One of the most uncomfortable nights of my life, no offense Jason. He sprawls across the front while I pack into the narrow back seat. I can't wait for dawn. Eventually light creeps through the window. We're in the parking lot of an apartment complex. It seems pretty obvious to me that two bums just spent the night in a truck, but the locals don't seem to mind. Perhaps their used to this behavior. By the look of things, transients are a common sight in these parts. We spend the majority of the day walking about, stopping in various shops and visiting local brew pubs. They're nice, have good repertoires, but none exceed the quality of Bobcat. Well enough. With train leaving Rutland early tomorrow we decide to take our leave. Better to spend the night down there than to have to drive early. In Rutland Jason knows of a unique little community that runs a restaurant/hostel called the Back Home Again. Inside the interiors are creatively accentuated with wild root forms and leather. It has a warm, cozy atmosphere despite its size. The food is generous, affordable, and totally satisfying. The staff are friendly but strangely cultish(?) They're really interested in explaining their particular perspective on life. It's neat, but more in an anthropologic way, I want to understand their take on life but have no interest in joining. With some clever finagling we manage to arrange a work-for-stay situation. Jason and I tag team the floors, sweeping and mopping, which affords us a night in their bunk house. Much better than sleeping in a truck.
Up bright and early and the pleasant fellows have breakfast prepared. Omlettes, rendered perfectly. I am truly thankful. A short jaunt to the Amtrak station and I'm off. A short but sweet trip I will not soon forget. The train schedule lays me over in lovely Schenectady for seven hours. Ugh. What to do? Hang out in the public library for a few until I've exhausted my intronet needs, then a walk through the dreary ghettos before settling in for a movie. Sucker Punch. It was atrocious but totally fitting seeing as how I was in fucking Schenectady. Finally the train departs and I'm homeward bound. Too bad I couldn't have stayed longer.

Friday, April 01, 2011

About Tuesday (3/29)


Tuesday, slept in late and I'm still feeling the hurt. Jason wants to take me to ride the mountain but I'm apprehensive. I'm not sure that an ailing knee is the correct condition for trying a new sport. Decision time. I think I ought to consider returning to Madison. The tourist season is almost over in VT. Most seasonal (read: catering to tourists) jobs are over until after summer. I don't own a car, which renders me almost completely dependent on Jason. This is not a recipe for an extended stay. So I make the call. I will catch the train outta Rutland early Friday morning.
With the rest of our day Jason and I take a short hike to Equinox pond at the base of Mt. Equinox. It's a mostly flat trail located in a sweet nature preserve directly adjacent to the wealthy section of town. To think there's a high school right outside the park. Jason and I agreed that if we had attended this school in our earlier days we would've skipped class in favor of the park often.

About Monday (3/28)

Monday and my bum knee is illin'. Jason calls it my Bitch Knee. He suggests I "beat the bitch out of it." Not sure if that will work. I limp about Monday. Jason takes me on a driving tour of the surrounding areas in order to run a few errands. He keeps a P.O. Box in the town he lived prior to Manchester affording an opportunity to see his winter stomping grounds. I neglected to bring my camera, a blunder as rural VT is gorgeous even during this unpleasant time of year. I like the low stone walls and the covered bridges. Everything is rustically charming.
Our main destination is a cheese factory in Grafton, a small town with rich history stretching back to revolutionary war times. Though the cheese store was neat the little history museum was of most interest. They sported a fine collection of historical glass bottles and an impressive photo archive in the back.
We continued onward. Jason has a habit of stopping in just about every country store just to see what's selling and chat up the locals. Being from rural areas I suppose it's just second nature for him. I myself, hailing from urban environments, am never so bold. City folk seem to be too busy to be bothered, over the years I've learned to keep conversation to a business minimum.
Monday night is cheap pizza night at Bella's, the restaurant immediately adjacent to Jason's abode. We gorge ourselves on pizza and beer, passing out early. I guess we're still feeling that hike.

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Pix From The Dark Hike

I Can See For Miles and Miles

Humble Shelter
Largest Pond Ever

Object Lesson

With the massive show behind us Jason and I decided to hit the woods again for a hike. We couldn't have picked a more perfect day, though we ended up being out for ten hours we saw nary a cloud in the sky. Our hike began up a narrow dirt road that ascended rapidly into the hills. To our sides water rushed fast over smooth rocks. Winter is failing, spring rears her wild head.
As the road crests we are treated to Prospect Rock, a kind of look out spot that provides views of the valley below. Under perfect skies we have a clear view all the way to the end of the world. Clean, cold air fills our lungs and uplifts our spirits. We are compelled to push on ward. Ahead lies a section of the Appalachian Trail. Jason spent five months hiking the AT after college and is excited to show me a section. He is particularly enthusiastic to show me one of the many shelters built along the way to accomodate weary travelers. We march onward.
The shelter proves humble, quaint, but ultimately effective. It's clear how much a relief it would be for the exhausted. Inside is a little notebook, which trekkers have used to jot notes and insights of their wanderings. Jason explains that such documents commonly include an address of the person who left the notebook so that when filled it may be returned to the original owner for their records. Neat little slice of history. I'm beginning to understand the unique nature of AT trekker culture. Fascinating.
At this point it was about 3pm. We were at a dilemma, should we turn about and backtrack? (Boring!) or Push onward? (Exciting!) We chose the latter and are still living with the consequences of that fateful decision. According to our interpretation of the map we had another four hours of hiking ahead of us, surely a formidable endeavor but not impossible. We set out, our only indication of the trail being azure swatches (what in the blue blazes?) painted to tree trunks. The trail skirted along the bank of a rapid brooke, proving to be quite boggy in places. This was tricky as certain sections of the path became large sink holes that plunged low through the impressive snow drifts. We found ourselves straining our joints to avoid plummeting through unstable snow as we skirted the edges of these treacherous obstacles. The trail extended ever onwards. At one point we thought we had surely passed a significant landmark (a vast pond) only to find the trail extending past an expected intersection. Then we thought perhaps we were headed for the road only to run into the original pond. We picked up the intersecting path that would lead us back towards home but the blue swatches were becoming difficult to locate. The light was fading. Eventually we had to make the uncomfortable decision to back track (dammit!) If we had stayed the course finding the trail out would have proved impossible. We had only planned to be hiking for a couple of hours. We hadn't packed camping gear and though the night sky proved as clear as the day we hadn't gear for inclement weather.
As painful as the decision was the possibility of getting lost in the night was motivation to press on back. By this point my knees were seriously beginning to whine. The sun dipped below the horizon and darkness settled fast. The wind picked up. Got to keep moving. Thankfully Jason had his head lamp. I forgot to pack mine. If we hadn't had this light source our return could've proved much longer. Though the journey was harrowing it was not without it's own beauty. The sky remained clear and the stars that night were absolutely brilliant.
It was late when we returned to the AT shelter but we knew the way out was not much farther. We pushed on finally retaking the dirt road and descending the mountain. We sang songs in the dark to keep motivated. Orion loomed huge and forboding overhead. Wild wind rushing through tall trees gave way to tumbling stream. At last we were on the home stretch. Back at the crib Jason promised to drive to the grocer so as to refuel on snacks. He promptly passed out. I don't blame him. We had just survived my darkest hike. Seeing as how Jason had been present at my coldest hike in Mongolia I think it's safe to say he's the best hiking buddy I've ever had. Good to be here.
So we've spent the following two days in recovery. My knee is vastly improved though not yet 100% I'm not sure I'm good to ski and seeing as how there's not much else to do around here I think it best I take my leave soon. I don't know, my body just doesn't handle the cold well anymore.

Truth Through Acoustics

Herculean effort yielded tepid results. I had to meet up with Jason at his work before we ventured to the show. This required a hitch hiking on my part. 16 miles through foreign territory, not so bad but a little nerve wracking non-the-less. Fortunately the fine citizens of Vermont made the ride much more comfortable. Although I had to catch three different drivers and none of the rides were very long each driver was sympathetic and the last fellow took me all the way to my destination and pointed out Jason's work. Fine people, Vermonters. My heart holds them dear.
Finally Jason finished work. We made our way south to another ski mountain for the Easy Star All Stars. Sign on the door indicated the show was sold out. Bogus. I was willing to accept our fate but others in our party proved recalcitrant. This patience paid off as we were eventually allowed in, if only at an increased price. The band was rad, playing their dub inspired covers of famous rock albums. The crowd was loving it, singing along for most of the show. However the acoustics were terrible, I couldn't believe this souped up barn was being used as a venue. For a band such as Easy Star I felt it was an insult. Lame.

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Wild VT



Where Pixies Dare



There's Now A Space Between Us

High On Life. Seriously









Steady Foot
How?





Lookin' Good, VT

Jason's got the day off from his work and he wants to hit the mountain! We start the day off right with a Greek Omelet from Bob's Diner before hitting the woods. The plan is to follow power lines until they intersect a trail in the mountains. We dip into the woods with power lines in sight, and start trekking uphill. Everywhere snow is melting and the watersheds are beginning to flow. The sound of trickling snow melt is like silver bells to my ears.
We never did come across those power lines but by now we are enchanted by the mystery of the forest. No need for a clear path, we've got a brooke to follow. Up ahead massive rock formations heave themselves from the surrounding forest with geologic rapidity. Bands of sediment remind us of ancient forces involved with the sculpting of the land. Jason points out a unique icicle that appears to "platform" before touching the rock face it hangs above. No explanation available.
Moving onwards and upwards. We summit the crest to find perfect flats for pitching tents. This area reminds me a bit of my Camp Perfecto at Khuvsguul Nuur. Some large creature has left traces of its passing in the form of prints in the snow. Surely some large carnivore. A cougar? Jason tells me a tale of a Fisher Cat that stalks the land. Most intriguing. Out of nowhere my foot plunges deep, up to my thigh in snow. On the way down my bastard knee scrapes against a boulder. And it begins again, the pain. I like it. It's how I know I'm mortal.
Jason spots a few flurries blowing about. We realize the risk of possible snow storms and, acknowledging our lack of preparedness, decide to head back. Footprints, human this time, lead down toward civilization. We find the power lines we were looking for, only to realize they span a deep cleft in the mountain's face. We find ourselves against insurmountable odds as we attempt to make our way out. The slope proves too slippery, we're careening desperately for the icy stream below! Cold, fresh water tumbles down rapidly. Ice forms from spray where water strikes stone. This stream bears some the queerest ice forms I've ever witnessed. I'm convinced a life of adventure will continue to yield new discoveries. Raise a glass to human curiosity! May the spirit of inquiry last eternal!
Back to the road and I'm hobbling now. Sliding down icy slopes, digging in for purchase in futile attempts to avoid a frigid drenching, crouching low to find the best camera angles. These activities have worked a number on my ailing joint. We'll have to take it easy for a bit. The following day we laid low, taking a walking tour of the nearby town and catching a show at The Perfect Wife (great name for a pub.) The Po Boyz from Boston rocked a light crowd with their bayou inspired funk. An invigorating show followed by star lit walk back to the crib. It's good to be here. As I write this I anticipate seeing the Easy Star All Stars rock some dub reggae at a show south of here tonight. I hope we can get in the door. One way or the other Jason has the next five days off. I see some winter camping in our near future. Stay tuned.

Headed East


In all my travels I've always gone West. I'm 30 now. Time to switch focus. After long months of sitting around Madison doing largely nothing I've decided to travel again. My boy Jason (you remember him, from Mongolia? Remember?) has been staying out in Vermont and he keeps telling me to come visit. So I'm off, upon a train again. Travelling at the speed of White!


Train outta Chi-town leaves at 930pm. All of Indiana, Ohio, and Pennsylvania is shrouded in darkness. My drowsy eyelids lift to reveal the rust of post-industrial Buffalo. I turn the sepia tone on my camera and shoot out the train window. Seems appropriate.



In Schenectedy, NY I'm treated to the height of charm from the chubby waitress at the Grogg Shoppe. Her personality is a bit too bubbly to be real. She ladles the blue cheese dressing onto my Kentucky Blue Burger with sloppy finesse, failing to allow the ladle to drip into the bucket, schlopping blue cheese all over the plate. Seriously? My request for a "medium" amount of bacon elicits a meaty palm full of bacon bits. Dear lord, perhaps I would've faired better at "Clinton's Ditch." With such an alluring name how could you go wrong? Ahhh, Schenectedy, I promise never to return. Unless passing through of course.


A svelte 32hrs after my departure from Home, Sweet, Home I'm in Rutland,VT. Jason picks me up at the train station. The adventure has just begun.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Something Strange Is Afoot At The Circle K

This post has been a long time coming. All of my favorite signs from my time in Ulaanbaatar.
Outside the Best Dance/Circus/Strip Club on Earth!
Does Anybody Else See An Alien Crossing?
Urm.....
As To Why The Dark Knight Decided To Set Up His Practice In UB I'll Never Know
Not A Single Dent Out There Superior To This
I Dunno...I Still Don't Trust This Place
Oh My...Wonder What Goes On In The "Kitty House"
Never Been In. I Hear It's Damp and Claustrophobic
No Copy-Right Infringement Going On Here
Believe It Or Not It's An American Establshment
I Was Surprised To Find This Franchise In Operation In Seattle!
Kindly Remove The Fish's Head Before Serving
How About Some Raw Chicken With Your Soup?
His Flash Drives Can Swim!
Nothing Homoerotic About Those Outfits
One Of My Students Said It Looks Like An Angel. I Like That
They Call Him Gas Money!
Wonder If Snoop Dogg Is Aware Of His Fans In Mongolia
WTF?
This Tag Is So Cute
Yep. There're Nazis In Mongolia. Go Figure
Please Do