8/17/06 Back To Port Angeles

So I picked up the real trail the next day and took it down to the creeks edge. By and by it led to a huge log that spanned the creek. I walked the log only to find it not connected to the other bank. I clambered over its roots and hopped ashore but the bank was steep with no path in sight. Frustrated at this conundrum I back trailed in search of an alternate route. I found one little diverging path that spilled out onto a rocky shore. It did not look promising. I looked across. On the opposite shore was a log pushed up againts the bank by the current. Oddly enough there were rails bolted to its side as though it were meant to be a bridge. I looked further up and sure enough there was another section of log with rails bolted on, this one was connected to a path. Judging from the clean edge someone had obviously cut it with a power tool, but why? Curiouser and curiouser. I had to wade across the creek which was treacherous for having a current and slippery rocks. I was kinda pissed. Who's maintaining these trails?

A little ways up I came across the main trail that indicated the exit was immanant. I was relieved, a few days without human contact was sweet bu I was tired, hungrey and sore. I made the trek to Merrymere falls which was all fascillitated and heavey with tourists. Nice waterfall. Tall. And then it was out.

I ended up hitching a ride back to Port Angeles from this rat bastard. He was racist (refered to Muslims as "towel heads"), sexist (said women are dumb because they consider children their primary concern when they should be looking after their husbands who make all the money, how old school is that?) and just plain belligerant. We did agree on a few things, weed is sweet, George Bush is dumb and religion is fucked up. Well I wasn't really gonna argue with him. Shit, he was doing me a favor. Back at Thor Town I passed out hard. I'm gonna lie low and then head to Portland tomarrow. I'm comin' for you Liz!

8/17/06 Olympia: Two Nights

Managed to kill some time by hiking about in Olympic National Park. I wanted to see what I could handle with my CamelBak so I loaded it up ass much as possable and just went. I'm so glad I did. I got a shit ton of sweet pix. My hike lasted two days and two nights. It started out as a real steep ascent that took me into alpine forests and meadows. Eventually I was walking along a ridge that sloped away sharply on either side. This offered stunning veiws of the mountains on both sides of me.
















Further along I came to Happy Lake which appeared stagnant and scummy. I was a little disappointed. That night I camped on Boulder Lake. It too was kinda gross and there was a group of teenagers who were being loud and obnoxious which made the experience less pleasant. A small family of deer wandered through my camp, nibbling on the undergrowth. They seemed completely unconcerned with my presence. I was preparing dinner the whole time, making plenty of noise but they didn't seem bothered at all. Strange.



The next day I began the descent which wrecked havoc on my poor knees, particularly my left which has been bothering me so. It was sweet though as alpine forestss gave way to lush jungle. Ferns began to crop up and moss gathered everywhere, so green and wet. I came across several creeks spilling down the mountain towards the sea.

At one point I came across a sign post marking a ssplit in the path where my map showed none. It only indicated two paths, the one I had come down and another labled Barnes Creek Trail which I persumed was my destination. The third path appeared unmarked. Later I found that I was completely wrong, that this one was marked and obviously the correct path, but in a way I was glad. Sometimes getting lost is the best.

The Barnes Creek Trail began to ascend again which I found ssusspect. It headed off to the east which was suspect as well. But it crossed over wild creeks spilling down the mountain, tumbling over sculpted rocks and spraying the dense coverage of moss. This is what egged me on, beyond all logic. I knew I was going the wrong way, perhaps getting lost, but it was too beautiful to retreat. I found areas where trees had fallen, spanning the gully carved by the ancient creek. This made for good adventure climbing over and photographing the watery terrain below.


It was getting late. I knew I was lost. I decided to turn back. My knees were terribly sore at this point and my flat feet were beginning to feel the burn. At the second creek crossing I decided I shouldn't walk any further and made my camp. Luckily I had just enough food to squeeze out another night. This place was lovely, secluded. I hadn't come across another soul all day. No obnoxious teens to contend with tonight. Just me, the river and the stars. I cooked beans for the second night in a row and slipped down into my sleeping bag. Good night.

8/13/06

I need a life line. I'm running out of cash and I can't get a hold of my contacts in Seattle. Basically I'm screwed. The last couple of nights have been weird in a draining sort of way. I'm just glad to have found refuge at the Thor Town hostel in Port Ageles, WA.

My last night in Tofino was kinda bogus. After scoring my bus ticket to Victoria I scoured the town for some affordable accomadation. I found nothnig so I gave up and set up camp in the city park.

In the morning some locals observed my behavior and looked disgusted. I felt as though I had betrayed the peoples trust. It was a shady feeling.

The bus ride was all right. It made me feel as though I had made the right decision as the scenery wasn't so spectacular that I would rather have rode the bike. Plus it saved my knee some trouble. Once again upon arriving I found that the hostels were mostly booked. I had to hole up in this filthy place with shady folk who were rude and unpleasant, getting in fights and hating each other. Not my idea of the hosteling scene.

I poked around Victoria for a day, checking out local shops and popping into galleries. Once again I was mostely dissapointed although some things were better then what VanCouver had to offer. I was pleasantly surprised at one point to hear some phat breakbeats pumpin' out a shop window, so I slipped inside to find WhiteBird Lounge, a sweet little cafe/fashion/record store. The owner dude told me of the thriving D'n'B scene in Victoria and gave me the heds-up about the Jungle Niteclub, a local drum'n'bass hotspot. So I went. The decks were rockin', lotsa fresh sounds but the dancin' on the floor was weak. I was dismayed. Of course I took it to the hard floor but my knee was buggin' out on me. Oh well I shall have to return.

The show got out at three in the morning which left me three hours until the ferry sailed for Port Angeles. I had intended to leave last evening and subsequently made no arrangments for that nights accomadations. I ended up crashing in this weird space behind the hostel. It was perhaps the strangest night on record. It looked as though homeless folk regularly spent nights there. There was this funked out mattress folded up in the corner and the place stank of stale urine. I didn't really get any sleep but I dozed off a little only to be rudely awakened by the cruel noise of some woman leaving the hostel abruptly, threatening to call the police. Shady hostel.


By the time I made it to the ferry I was whipped. I hadn't showered or brushed my teeth since my stay in Ahouset (three days) and I was lookin' pretty ragged. People kept staring at me and giving me the evil eye. What a world.

So I pulled into Thor Town hostel at about nine in the mornin' and promptly passed out. I slept until about four in the afternoon and then ventured out to get dinner. I made burritos, yum. As I was cleaning up a young couple rolled in. They were headed up to Hurricane Ridge in Olympia National Park and offered to take me along. I shoulda brought my camera.

The sunset was absolutely gorgeous. Those peaks were so high up and we were right there with them. I especially enjoyed the glow of the set sun over the horizon. There was such a stark contrast between the red/orange sky and the black silloheted ridge. Later, while stargazing an old man approached and just started offering up information about the heavens. He pointed out certain constellations and specific stars, he showed us Jupiter rising through the sign of Scorpio. Apparantly we were in the middle of a meteor shower that peaks annually at this time of year. We certainly saw a number of shooting stars. Later, as we left the moon was rising. It was big and orange and the city lights shown beneath her waning face. How strange to spend these pleasant moments with perfect strangers. To think that but a day earlier I was hunkered in an alley in Victoria, derelect and alone.

8/9/06 No Rest for the Wicked

Kennedy River to Tofino was bitchin'. The hills were just too steep, fuckin' destroyed my knee. I tried to take it slow but to no avail. Cruised around Wickaninish Cultural Center at Long Beach Provincial Park.

There were some sweet rocks to clamber over. Then I made my way to Tofino.

Tofino is a neat tourist destination with ocean style outdoor culture such as surfing, sea kayaking, and whale watching. Some neat art happening here, probibly fueled by the tourist scene. Like Nelson the locals seemed kinda standoffish, like they've seen enough tourists already.

I took a ferry over to Ahouset on Flores Island. What a nice trip. They have this "Wild Side Heritage Trail" that is totally insane!
I loved it even while it demolished my knee. The trail winds its way back and forth between sandy beaches to temperate rain forests.
The day was perfect, very foggy and wet.
The beaches were bleakest gray but the forests were vibrant green, so saturated and lush.
I saw nary a hiker and but a few kayakers making camp on the beach. It was awesome. So isolated and these long, endless beaches that were clean, hardly any organic matter marring their pristine sands.


Today was such a non-day. I didn't leave the hostel until one in the afternoon and I just tooled around town looking for a mouthpeice for my camelbak. I lost it somehow and I'm determined to get one before venturing forth again. For that reason I'm taking a bus to Victoria. This will save my knee some trouble. It may also save some money and allow me to hang out in Victoria longer. I think there's some kinda glass art scene worth looking into so I'm excited.

I'm outta cash, I'm gonna have to dip into my bank account and I'm getting lonely. Alicia I want you.

Kennedy River

8/6/06 Its way too dark to write this but I must say, if I was in heaven last night tonight I've found Nirvana. What a fantastic day and what a sweet place I've found to lay me down.

I left my camp on the shores of Cameron Lake quite late only to find a mile down the road the majestic Cathedral Grove.

Tons of huge old growth trees with heavey curtains of emerald green draped luxeriously over their ancient boughs.



I must've spent an hour there snapping way too many picturess. It was rather crowded though so I had to rally.

Further on, as the heat of the day caught up to me I came across the beach at Sproat Lake. It too was rather populated but very cold, refreshing, relaxing, rejuvinating. I can't believe how clean the waters are around here. I swam and drank and lounged around in the sun. Splendid.

I finished off the day with one of those searches for a ssuitable campsite that just draws on and on. However tonight I think I found the champ.

At the base of a mountain that rises forever, on rocks sculpted by thousands of years of pounding water, by the lulliby of the roaring river, pure and blue I've found the place to lay me down.

Beans are almost ready. Eat good and then to bed. Have a magnificent night. I will tell all in the morning. Peace.


















8/7/06 Cold Morning. Last night the aura of the moon dimmed the stars in the eastern quadrant of the firmament. I sat up eagerly awaiting her arrival, waiting to see her face reflected in the river. But she drew a shroud of mist about her. Itss been overcast since. Everything is damp and dewey. And cold. I want to go back to bed. Its still rather early.

8/6/06 Uncle Petey Is F*#@%in' in Heaven

Oh man. Its late morning on the south shore of Cameron Lake. I camped here last night and it is so perfect. I almost spent the night in a campsite up the road and thankfully I didn't. They wanted $17! I found a better site and camped for free! Cameron Lake is super fly with steep mountains jutting up off its shores of ultra pure glacial water. I'm so jealous of the people who own properties on the north shore.


Heading out of VanCouver on my way to the ferry at Horseshoe Bay I stopped in West VanCouvers Light House Park. Man that was awesome. Huge old growth trees and moss everywhere.

Massive rocks carved by thousands of years of crashing surf on a gorgeous coast.

I hiked up this hill and took a nap on a soft bed of moss. It was so serene.

I took the ferry to Nanaimo and spent the night in their Cambie Hostel. I think I got ripped by getting their VIP card. They're kinda gross hostels. Oh well.

I think I rode only 45miles today to this sweet spot. I'm okay with that though. At the start of thiss trip I was real gung ho about making the best time I could in a day and covering a lot of ground. And I did. But now I have to budget my time and money accordingly. I think I'd like to stay on the island for about two weeks. I wanna visit Tofino. I want to hike the West Coast Trail or as much of it as I can. I want to make my way to Victoria and spend some time there checking out the art scene and possably making some contax. I don't know what the situation is with ferry rides but if I can I'd like to avoid returning to VanCouver.

Its now the 6th of August and I've got about $125 canadian. I don't want to pull anymore money out of my checking account. If I can make it last for two weeks it'll be a miracle. If all goes as planned I will roll into Seattle on or around Aug.20th. That leaves me a full ten days until Alicia is supposed to show up. Ridiculous. Who knows, maybe I'll have to spread some time out kickin' it in Olympic National Park. Not bad.

8/3/06

I don't know about VanCouver. Gallery hopin' totally blew today. Just a bunch of souped up chintz shops. The glass scene here is weak, crappy blown shit, I couldn't find any cast action anywhere. I must say I'm kinda dissappointed, I expected a little more from VanCouver. Too many aggressive pan handlers and the streets are jusst gross. I was fortunate enough to find some sweet grafetti murals around town. Check the pix.






























I'm looking forward to taking off tomarrow. I'm gonna hang out in some parks, maybe do some hiking as I head up to Horseshoe Bay to catch the ferry to Nanaimo on VanCouver Island. From what I hear there's some sweet country out that way. Whats more it sounds like there's more of a glass scene in Victoria. Boo Ya!

8/2/06

Guess what? I'm in VanCouver! Leaving Nelson I rode hard for Nakusp not realizing it was 90 miles away. The way was quite hilly and I was really feeling the burn. The pain in my knee was migrating to my hip so I ended my days ride at 80 miles. The next day I pulled into Nakusp and stayed long enough for a snack a breather. It seemed like a descent town with gear shops, food co-ops and art happeningss. Nice beach along the lake. Real small though. Probibly nothing to offer in terms of an art career.



Revelstoke was another 80 miles north so by the time I pulled into the hostel I was wasted. Travelers are so generous. Feys, an Aussie reveled at my journeys "100k? Fuck but that's a lot!" and he gave me dessert, bread pudding with ice cream. However I was dissappointed with Revelstoke. It was tiny and had nothing going on. As one dude put it, "its hard to spend money here."

After my last two days of riding I was having doubts about the trip to Lake Louise. Everyone said Rogers Pass was totally gnarly and I was losing it on those B.C. hills. SSo I decided to cut my losses and roll to VanCouver. It turns out Mike, a chef I met hosteling in Nelson was leaving for VanCouver and offering a ride. $60 cheap! sso I took it. It was pleasant enough. Once we got rolling I sstarted having reservations as it turned out to be almost all downhill. That section ended up being the most amazing portion of the trip so far. The mountains were huge! and we just dropped like 12 ton rocks for what seemed like 60 miles straight! We pulled into VanCouver around 7pm and I took my leave. Its touch and go, so breif. What a life.



I'm staying in this run down hostel for $19 a night. They offer free breakfast at the cafe next door and the bathrooms are filthy. I don't dare take a shower, it'd probibly give me AIDS. The town is working itself out, revamping sections as rich chineese businessmen move in and buy condos. A lot of the galleries around peddle native american art to the point of exploitation and yet it seems that the first nations are doing much better here then down in the states.

One way or the other tomarrow will be my day to gallery hop and then I'll take off. I really don't think I have much in the way of an opportunity here sso I'll save my hopes for Seattle. I'm definately taking a trip to the Island though. Gotta see some green soon! I think I'm gonna show up in Seattle broken and confused, too early to crash with Alicia. My luck will run out and I will die alone and forgotten in this mad mad world.

7/26/06-7/27/06 Dancing Bear

7/26/06: I made it! I'm staying at the Dancing Bear hostel in Nelson, B.C. and it is sooo nice. The hostel staff have really made a strong effort to make this place a home away from home. There's a few families with young children staying here which is kinda strange, but it makes the place feel safe. Its quiet time at 10pm which is way early but with little children trying to sleep in a strange place I can understand.

Nelson town nestles down in the valley of a river running between two towering mountain ranges. Subsequently there is a huge outdoors/mountain scene here. Lotsa gear head shops mixed with hippy head shops. Its a lot like Madison before the Big Money Train rolled through. I was hoping the art scene would be bigger/better out this way but its all pretty chintzy craft shite. Not much of the fine art/sculpture that I'm interested in.

7/27/06: Where are all the good vibes? Last night the hostel was rockin'! People cookin' up grub in the kitchen, laughin', tellin' stories, the lot of it. The two britissh guys, Freddy and Alex, hasve left. Freddy the 60 yr old biker dude, all wirey, swarthy and tatooed. So full of stories and just fascinated with people, politics, foreign countries and languages. Totally taken by how awesome women are and how mistreated they've been. So full of energy. And Alex, the thirty something back packer with his dry wit and biting sarcasm. We had a lively discussion about british comedy which segued into television both british and american.

And the young couple from Calgary, Lauren and Riley. Lauren so sweet and generous offered me pie for dessert and cooked bacon and eggs breakfast. Riley who'd just been to Conference in Madison. All gone, off their seperate ways, most likely never to be seen again. I get the feeling that this is how the traveling life is, and what one can expect from hostelling as well. I think to continue this for much longer then I intend would get awefully lonely.

I'm leaving tomarrow. I can see the charm of Nelson wearing off and the dark underbelly rearing its ugly head. I can see it in the way I have no desire to leave Baker Street as though this is the only real Nelson and somehow evil monoculture is creeping in around the edges. I can see it in the way the misguided pseudo-hippies converse freely during the Reggae show, interfereing with the energy of the music. The days are hot and my money runs low. I must move on in order to save what little I have left. Tomarrow I will not head towards VanCouver as originally planned. Instead I will ride north to Nakusp and Revelstoke beyond. From there its east to Glacier Park and Rogers Pass on the way to Lake Louise. After a few days of exploring its north to Jasper for more. Then back west and south through Kamloops on to VanCouver beyond. I hasve inserted this detour into my itinery in an effort to buy more time so I don't end up spending all my money in VanCouver. I think I will also take a ferry to VanCouver Island to explore a bit.
One things for sure, I'm out tomarrow morn, bright and early. Geranimo!

7/24/06 No Sleep 'till...Balfour!

Here I am in B.C. in a little town called Balfour. I met this older couple, Bill+Roxy, on the ferry from Kootenai Bay. They were bike touring as well and gave me the heads up about Nelson, my next stop. I'm stoked. I'm chillin' in the shade right now waiting for the heat of the day to die out. Probibly won't be for another three hours or so. Crazy.

On my second day out from Whitefish (that's the day after camping at Lake Koocanusa) I rolled my way through Libby, Troy and over the Montana/Idaho border. I found company in another bike tourist named Brent who was coming out from Maine. He insisted that we stop at Kootenai Falls which was brilliant because I was starting to get heat stroke. I hung out at the river jumping in a few times.

The water was so cold I could barely stay in for more then five minutes at a time. It cooled me off as the sun wondered westward. I didn't get back to it until 6pm, two and a half hours after arriving.


That night I pulled off the highway and laid me down on some barren property. I didn't get any sleep though because the mosquitos were treacherous! Those little bastards were at it all night. Viscious. I tried everything to keep them away but to no avail. Finally at 4:30 in the morning I packed up my camp and rolled out. I was tired, hungrey and furious so I babied myself with a gas station/diner breakfast and a short ride to Creston, British Columbia. Over the border baby, yeah! I got a cheap hotel and just laid low, splurging on dinner as well.

The ride up to Kootenai Bay from Creston was pretty though not flat as Crestons mayor insisted. I did it in the morning while the sun was still below the mountains so it was nice. I think its another two hours from here to Nelson and then I'm gonna hang out for like a week. Maybe. Oh my god I'm gonna spend so much money.

7/21/06 On The Road Again!

It was a tough decision but the time has come to leave this little slice of heaven. I'm gonna miss campin' out under the stars and waking up to fresh cherries straight off the tree. Nothing better then fresh cherry pancakes for breakfast, several rounds of fresh cherries all day and even fresh cherry midnight snack. Something tells me I'll be back for more. I'd like to see this part of the world in October.
Dana and I spent Thursday ramblin' about in Glacier National Park. Along one of the trails we came across a lame deer. She just sauntered down the path a little bit ahead of us, eventually hunkering down in a bush to watch us pass. Later we drove over Logans Pass which crested the Great Divide. It was beautiful and crowded. The days end found us full of greasy spoon truckstop food laying out in Danas truck in the middle of some feild. We slept too late to meet up with friends at the bar so we just passed out for the rest of the night. Its time to take my leave.
Todays ride was hot and long. Its gonna take a little to get my body back into it. Four days of feasting on fruit has worked a number on my bowels. I'm sure you wanted to hear that last bit. My stomach has stretched. Its after dinner but I'm still hungrey. I'm camped out on Lake Koocanusa, its pretty and pacifying. Highway 37 is dead at night!
-7/21/06 Along the Eastern Shores of Lake Koocanusa

7/17/06 Dana!

I made it! Here I am at Danas and it is lovely! She's got a cute little cottage with cherry, apple and plum trees in the yard. Amazing. It's up the mountains from the eastern shore of Flat Head Lake. She told me there's a path that leads up into National Forest land where you can just wander for days! So sweet. There are cherry orchards all down the coast.
I was so worried that I wasn't gonna get a hold of her. Yesterday when I pulled into Big Fork I called but she didn't pick up. I camped on the lake last night. Again there were too many motorboats and screaming children . Nice sunset.



I debated going to Kalispell and picking up some supplies but I thought I'd call once more. She answered! Hallelujah! We met at this old antique store filled with awesome home furnishings from another eras.



Lots of sweet sink basins for your faucet.



One was a huge peice of 1inch thick glass slumped into a sink form with the front end spilling over to make the shelf.



Its good to be here! Lovin' it!
-Somewhere south of Big Fork

7/15/06 Lincoln-Swan Lake MT

I keep telling myself I'm gonna take a break and then I push ahead again. I did baby myself a little yesterday and this morning with a couple of restaurant meals and a hotel. I'm trying to budget myself to $100/week. The first two days I didn't spend a red cent so I thought I might splurge. Two days later and I'm down to $20. Madness!
My hosts at the Hotel in Seeley Lake were aweful nice. They were the crazy type, moving from place to place, always just scraping by. The place was so small and in such a small town, I wondered if they got any relief. Apparently they're basically married to the establishment. What a shame. Sounds like they'll be moving on soon. They talked my ear off last night. Starving for attention, they would interrupt each other or talk at the same time. It was like trying to have a conversation with children. Nice people though. They fed me beer. Wes told me about his motorcycling adventures and selling antiques. Anne told me of her love for the Larch, a deciduous conifer that grows in the area. I thought that this was a contradiction in terms but sometimes truth is stranger then fiction.
Well, I've made it up to Swan Lake. I had meant to get here on my fifth day. I guess I'll have to kick it in Big Fork for a wee bitty. Dana isn't expecting me until Tuesday. I'll be there on Sunday. Whoops.
Its time for a swim. Peace.

7/14/06: The Road to Bigfork

Oy! Hate to complain but the last couple days of ridin' have been tough. Bozeman to 3forks was smooth but ugly, mostely industrial ag. bs. 10mins outta 3forks the wind kicked up hard and I had to hunker down inna ditch for 2hrs. I was dissappointed and concerned about making it to my destination: Townsend. Basck on the road I hit a section thast according to the sign "pavement ends." I found myself struggling to climb 4 miles of muddy gravel while Semi's and RVs alike barreled past me. Very nerve racking. However after this atrocity I found smooth sailing and pulled into Townsend by 7:30.
I asked the Sheriff about camping and she recommended the high school football feild. Seemed shady but, oh well. It was odd fixing breakfast as the boys began morning practice. I tried to find water and was disappointed by the lack of help from the locals. The sheriff suggested a campground but I found all the pumps broken. I ended up replenishing in a RV park laundromat. Nobody was around, it may have been illegal but nobody will ever know.
First 10miles to Helena were up a gentle grade and through heavey wind. I couldn't get any momentum, going was real slow. Later the terrain tapered off and I regained lost time. Helena was weak. I considered getting a hotel and trying to track down Barry Hood, a local glass artist. I couldn't establish contact and decided to split.
The next leg included the Continental Divide. I probibly shoulda just waited for morning but something was driving me on. At first the road was real flat and again there wass wind. Finally I hit mountains and the road started to switchback and climb. It was brutal. After a while I thought I might just walk. I decided to take one more break and try once more. I got back on and hauled my poor ass over at 4m/h. 8:30pm 7/13/06 weary, beaten, delirious but never defeated I crested the Great Divide and began the plunge down into the arms of the West.

The feeling of triumph was slow to fade so I peddled on for another hour. 9:30 and I hit the sac hard. 85miles and I'm beat. Good day.

'sbeen A Long Time...

Hey kids! I'm back! Its two months since I left for my big trip. Its over now, I'm settling down in Seattle, trying to find my place in this glass heavy town. I like it so far.
For those who don't know the above image is the rig that hauled me across 1500 miles, over mountain and plain for six weeks on my scouting mission of the Northwest. Fully loaded. Camping gear, clothes, food and miscellania. I figure all in all about eighty pounds of extra baggage alone. Add the weight of myself and the bicycle and we're talking about roughly 250lbs. Everyday was a workout and some got real tedious or worse. But the highlights made it all worth it.
Stay tuned and I will relate all. Again most entries will be excerpts from my journel along with photos I took along the way. Enjoy!