Monday, March 01, 2010

Late Winter Re-Cap

Aloha.
Some of my faithful readers are worried. I haven't posted since early January. Others couldn't care less. The main reason for my lack of posts is that very little of note has occurred for close to two months. Oh, there've been parties, and they were nice. I've watched some interesting movies. Played some indoor soccer with the crew, scored a few goals. You know, whatever. But is that worth writing about? Now, now. Save your sarcasm for another blog.
Shortly after our frigid hike with the Calligraphers Association of Mongolia I was honored to attend an exhibition of their work at a local gallery. As I'm sure y'all are aware by now, Mongolian script fascinates me. This was some of the best examples I've seen yet. Check the pix below. I was wearing my del whilst walking about the gallery, which attracted the attention of a rather inebriated man. Though drunken, and only able to speak very little English I gathered that he was a friend of one of the artists and quite proud of the fact. He was stoked to see an American wearing traditional Mongolian clothing and insisted I drain a cup of wine with him and the artist. He then pulled me into a photo with the artist and his family. I felt awkward. I guess it's better than getting mugged. Earlier that day a huge skin-headed Mongolian drove past me in a dark car wearing sunglasses and talking on a cell phone. Without breaking his ice cold expression he gave me a thumbs up, presumably in response to my sick threads. Yeah. Two points for the del suckas!
We were blessed this month with a traditional holiday, which afforded us a couple of days off. Tsaagan Sar! or "White Moon" the Mongolian new year. A time for greeting relatives and eating buedz (my spelling, unofficial) a sort of meat dumpling. I failed to get invited to any Mongolian homes this year so I elected to take plan B, which was go to Jason's. He had stayed up the night before constructing buedz with his girlfriend Nara so a feast ensued. I was stoked to find calamata olives at the market and made a greek salad to share. It went down well. I noticed a shiny object in one of my dumplings which turned out to a be a coin (American quarter.) This means I am granted one lucky year to be cashed in this year only. I can't say this luck has yet manifested but considering all the unlucky things that could happen perhaps I should be counting my blessings. David ate one that he described as spicy, which of course was the unlucky buedz. However, to the best of my knowledge his luck hasn't been any better or worse than mine so far. I suspect that I've been duped.
On a sad note, one of my mates was unceremoniously dumped on Tsaagan Sar, which coincidently fell on Valentine's day this year. Not one to mope he decided to be proactive about it and organized a boys night out at Amrita, a night club with an identity problem. I had heard of this place, the word on the street was fire breathing contortionist strippers. I was intrigued. We arrived early and were forced to pay an exorbitant 8,000 Toogs (about $5.50) The interior was a bizarre ride indeed. Giant fish swam in an aquarium/bar. An astronaut stood placidly next to crudely carved sculptures of savage women squeezing their breasts suggestively. There was a stage equipped with a three story stripper pole. Quite the concept bar. Most of the night was filled with lame trance music and drunk fat people trying to dance and be sexy. The only redeeming quality was the professional dancers that slid down the lengthy pole and teased us with their flexible bodies.
...Then came the half time show. The dance floor was cleared in anticipation. A trifecta of lovely Mongol ladies in Indian Saris descended the stairs. The club was filled with the intoxicating vibrations of Bhangra beats. Slowly, the sultry sylphs seductively stripped their garments down to the barest of legality. Finally some exposed breasts, just what the doctor ordered. This dazzling display was followed by a duo of contortionists who bent themselves into the most mind bending of poses, all with a smile. How about dem apples? Then the lights fell and someone busted out the black light. Two more contortionists, clad in glowing skeleton costumes, appeared and performed an exquisite number complete with some boogie-woogie, knaw-mein? I, a lover of anatomy, was duly impressed. Finally the circus man closed down the show. He breathed some fire, swallowed a sword, laid his back down on some shards of glass, yada yada yada. Nothing can one up the boogie down bones crew. The night peaked with that show so we shambled out at 3am and made for home.
Flash forward...A level 2 class/intelligent students/very talkative/moving rapidly through the material. They invite me out to dinner. We go to a place called Altai Barbeque, a bistro that boasts authentically crafted Mongolian food. The seats are tacky both literally and figuratively, garishly hued linoleum. Brilliantly lit buffet line clashes remarkably with the odd placed geir and Chinggis statue. A foreboding ram skull adorns an otherwise cheery entrance. Several guests receive birthday cakes as chipmunk "Happy Birthday" blasts over the PA. Mongolian Kitch McDonald's from hell. I've been here before as a guest of appreciative students. Despite the appalling atmosphere the food is off the hook. This style has become popular in certain niche locations (like, I dunno, malls in California) so you may have encountered it before, dear reader. If not, allow me to offer you the benefit of the doubt. You have a buffet line with various meats, vegetables, spices and sauces available for your consumption. Fill your bowl with these raw ingredients and pass it to the chef who grills your meal on a giant round, flat "shield" of a grill. Momentarily your meal is finished. Voila! Mongolian barbeque. My students kept insisting that I eat and drink more, telling me that I'm skinny and therefore unhealthy. I will never be able to conquer the Mongolian appetite, but then again my diet affords a longer life expectancy so nyeah! One of my students, a classy young lady, was eating her meal Korean style. She would pack food onto a piece of lettuce, roll it up like a burrito, and then jam that sucker into her mouth until her cheeks appeared ready to burst! I took pictures to prove this phenomenon.
On a sadder note one of our colleagues has had to abort his contract with Santis prematurely. A series of unfortunate events landed him in the hospital for a week. He has recovered and is very much alive but it has been decided that Mongolia can't accomodate his health needs so he has made his leave. He never had the chance to see much else of Mongolia other than UB so in a show of support a small group of us took him out to a few sights. It was very cold. Alas, D.A., we hardly knew thee. ;(

Back To The Turtle

Lair of the Ice Turtles
Ominous Wisps of Snow, Harbinger of Doom!

Last Days With D.A.




Finish Him!


My Level 2 Class

These Guys Are Really Nice




She Can Really Put Them Down
She ate this fruit salad with some kind of pink food coloring, altering the pigment of her tongue. Ha!

Calligraphers Association Show

Shortly after my hike with the Calligraphers Association I visited their show at the Mongolian National Gallery of Modern Art. The following images are a selection of the work presented there.
I think this is my favorite style.



Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Just Another Day Outside UB


Pot Hat
The New Guy. Awestruck.
Beardcicles
Goofy Man
The Valley Where We Started
Winter Wonder
A Break In The Trees
The Immense Flats
Humble Shrine
About A Mile Of Flats We Passed To Get Here

Sundown

Monday, January 11, 2010

Sunup to Sundown

Goddam but isn't it cold in Mongolia. Over the summer people kept telling me that it gets down to -40F in the winter. Sure enough, we've had multiple weeks of extra sub-zero temperatures. Owning a del has certainly made a difference but I truly am mentally prepared for spring.
In true Mongolian spirit we decided to take a hike out in the vicious frigid air. Although it was again quite cold I was glad to get away from the city. A man can go stir crazy in a place like this. The plan involved hiking Bogd mountain, the range south of UB. We were to take a microbus around to the south face and begin our trek from the monastery, which, coincidentally, was where we spent our company picnic last October (read about it in the post titled Social Call.) The journey up was said to take three hours, after which we planned to take an hour lunch before descending. Essentially this amounted to an early start to a full day. In the cold.
I rejected the del in favor of more versatile clothing. Long johns and a camel wool sweater with two scarves and two pairs of gloves. Leaving at 7 in the morning I got to the meeting place well before sunup. We didn't leave UB until around 8am. I didn't check my clock but I believe the drive to our starting point took about 2 hours. So, at about 10am, with the sun cresting over the mountains, we began our journey.
There were four Americans: Myself, my homey Jason, Joe (who y'all met on the last hike) and Phillip, the newest addition to our Santis staff. We were out numbered by the Association of Mongolian Calligraphers, our hosts for the mission. Undrakh, our fellow employee, acted as our interpreter and I forgot the names of the others. There were five (or six? shit) of them and they were all involved in Mongolian calligraphic script writing in one capacity or the other. This was to be the first annual outing of this nature, so we were honored to take part.
Off we went through the pine forest, at a gentle grade. In terms of difficulty it was a bit lacking, but the sky was blue and the pines were alive and it was good to be away from noise and smog. Very peaceful. By and by we came upon a funky rock formation that formed a sort of look out point. We stopped here to rest, though I could've easily continued, and us Americans made an adventure of scaling the rock tower. It was so cold out. The batteries in my camera were near frozen, I could only get a few shots off before the camera would automatically shut down. With frozen fingers I attempted to adjust settings, but my gloves were too clumsy to affect the sensitive controls. I ended up taking some photos in a lower quality format due to this error. Not willing to compromise my artistic integrity I later scrapped them.
After stashing some cooking supplies we made off again. The path wound its way alongside a watershed, which provided a scenic break from the dense forest canopy. Boulders strewn here appeared as clumps of giant marsh mellows frozen in their descent towards the valley below. We stopped to rest yet again (unnecessarily in my opinion) and passed shots of vodka as we shared sausage and various sweets. I was in the mood to keep moving. Standing still was only sapping the heat from my extremities.
Off again, for the final leg of the journey. As we climbed higher the temperature dropped noticeably. I had to pull my scarf, now frozen from condensed water vapor, over my face. Unfortunately this caused my beardcicles to melt, ruining a perfectly good image. We crested a ridge leading to an enormous flat. We were in a winter wonderland. I felt like we were on some christmas tree farm, snow covered pines abounded sporadically in an expanded environment. Suddenly the trees gave way affording a view of the surrounding mountains. We were certainly in a magnificent and sacred place.
Up ahead our destination loomed. A fortress of rock formations defiant against a pure blue sky. Awesome in this stark wilderness, with winds wiping the cold air mercilessly against our poorly protected hides. It was only our small group in this wild place. At the peak, a natural wall of rock formed a half crescent around a humble flag adorned shrine. I wanted some alone time. I scrambled up a snowy outcropping and made my perch. Atop the world the wind blew even more fiercely. The slippery snow on my climbing hands sent waves of ice through my veins. Nothing like near death to make you feel alive! I couldn't remain at that height for long. My limbs were beginning to freeze. Below the Mongolian contingent was taking photographs and honoring the nature spirits. Again we shared vodka and munchies, but I was ready to move on.
Back to the watch tower and our stash of cooking gear. We built a fire and boiled tea in a large round pan. The hot tea did little to revitalize the rapidly sapping body heat. Someone was thawing out meat in a large glass jar. The glass shattered under the stress of rapid temperature change, slicing the web of said man's hand. Jason cut his glove open to form a make shaft bandage, and I lent the man one of my own to keep the injury warm. A cold hike, winter cooking and outdoor first aid. All in a days work. The meat tasted especially delicious.
A brief jaunt and we were back to the van just as night chased the sun over the western peaks. The microbus afforded no comfort. I felt like my feet were strapped to an icebox. We sang songs to ward off the chill and kill the travel time. To no avail. It was a long, cold, uncomfortable ride. Back home, I took a hot shower and proceeded to bed. The next day (a work day no less) I was exhausted. I spent the entire day in bed, only to venture forth for work. A great hike that will not be soon repeated.

Tuesday, January 05, 2010

Some Scenery






He's Pondering Life

At "Supermarket" we found a chocolate bar the size of a small baby.

Nasty UB






C'mon Brent!
Joe is Thinking