As planned we visited the Elephant Cave. Perhaps at one time it was a dignified place but now it's choked with tourists such as myself. Everyone wants a slice of the paradise pie. I'm amazed to find the grounds sprawling. A dirt trail leads away from the temple complex, skirting a ravine that falls away sharply into a river below. The trail winds its way down to said river, affording extraordinary views of an ethereal quality. I wish to explore more but time is of the essence. I shall have to return some day.
Back at the temple's name sake there's no way to bear witness to the sacred space without squirming through throngs of honkies. The sanctity is tainted with the sweat of infidels mingling with dense incense, pungent in confined space. The cave is carved out with typical Balinese finesse, yet time has eroded statues inside into near ambiguity. The atmosphere felt so wrong I couldn't be bothered to stay long.
Our driver for the day ferried us to Padang Bei, a port town promising passage to Lombok. Originally I believed there were ferries available to the Gili Islands, as it turned out exorbitant fast boats were the only choice for that destination. We opted for the ferry to Lembar instead, around twenty times cheaper. In the long run I'm not sure if this was the wiser choice. The ferry took five hours, getting dark as we arrived in the dismal hole that is Lembar. "Tourist Services" accosted us with outlandish vacation packages that we had no need for. Drivers quoted absurd prices for travel to Singgigi a beach town that holds more promise. We were obstinate, walking away from the scene in disgust. Finally a driver agreed to half the original asking price and we were on our way.
We're parked in this crappy hotel that has seen better days over looking the beach from the inland bluffs. Tomorrow we venture forth seeking information about hiking Gunung Rinjani, Indonesia's second highest volcano and home to an impressive crater lake. Afterwards we hope to go snorkeling.
Thursday, September 06, 2012
Art Day
Wild Thang
Hostile Take Over Via Jungle Forces
Depicts a dance I missed known as Barong. Got an agenda for next vacation.
The Balinese don't shy away from Death
8/16/2012 Ubud Day2
Felt good to crash hard. Slept damn near twelve hours last night. Sore throat is back so it's to the drug store before breakfast. Chuck and I decide to hit up some art museums in town so we make a day of it. Museum Puri Lukisan is almost all Hindu Demons. The images are maddingly busy and populated with fearsome creatures worthy of Where the Wild Things Are. The grounds of this place are lush and serene. All corroding sculptures immersed in jungle foliage. Rather like this look.
Nema Art Museum is a true marvel. Greater variety of work in an awe inspiring complex, similar to our hotel with terraced steps receding towards jungle ravine supporting luxurious structures. Inside the walls are graced with more expressionist type work from local artists, as well as some fine portraiture from Europeans who visited some decades past.
Later we take in another performance. This time with live people playing the parts. The dances are technically precise, delicate finger gestures and deliberate eye movements augment outlandish costumes and masks. Again the show is accompanied by a Gamelan orchestra, series of tonal percussion and gongs. This time a bit more melodic and suitable to the main attraction.
Originally I had hoped to visit more of the Balinese country side but with Chuck's stomach in the state it is perhaps it's best to find a place to relax. Tomorrow we plan to visit Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), followed by a ferry to the fabled Gili Islands. Surely good times await.
Nema Art Museum is a true marvel. Greater variety of work in an awe inspiring complex, similar to our hotel with terraced steps receding towards jungle ravine supporting luxurious structures. Inside the walls are graced with more expressionist type work from local artists, as well as some fine portraiture from Europeans who visited some decades past.
Later we take in another performance. This time with live people playing the parts. The dances are technically precise, delicate finger gestures and deliberate eye movements augment outlandish costumes and masks. Again the show is accompanied by a Gamelan orchestra, series of tonal percussion and gongs. This time a bit more melodic and suitable to the main attraction.
Originally I had hoped to visit more of the Balinese country side but with Chuck's stomach in the state it is perhaps it's best to find a place to relax. Tomorrow we plan to visit Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), followed by a ferry to the fabled Gili Islands. Surely good times await.
Wednesday, September 05, 2012
8/15/2012 Ubud Day 1
Found a cheaper place to park our gear than the night before. Unbelievably sprawling grounds, terraced in the back, housing charming little bungalows. There's a swimming pool where the statue of a lady spewing water from her abundant mammaries serves as a fountain. Gotta love dem Hindus. So much funner than the Muslim.
Chuck's outta commission so I journey forth in search of a tourist information post. I intend to purchase tickets for some dance performances. Apparently the Balinese rock some fly moves.
Along the way I stop for photography sessions of the manifold temples interspersed among galleries and shops. Words can't do them justice so g'hed an' check the pix y'all.
Later Chuck is up so we stroll down to the Sacred Monkey Forest. It's a shocking contrast to the tightly packed city. Here it's all sprawling jungle with numerous statuary depicting Hindu Gods. And monkeys. Whole lotta monkeys, jus' doin' they thang without a care in the world. On the grounds is an elaborate temple that proves picture worthy. Such a mysterious place.
Later we attend a performance of Wayang Kulit, (skin puppets.) Cut-outs from tanned buffalo hide, intricately stenciled, depicting characters from Hindu epics. A screen is hanging in front of a torch whose light illuminates the translucent sheet. The flat figures are held up in front of the light, casting shadow and silhouette alike. Sticks attached to hands with jointed arms allow for articulate movement. The show proves confounding at best. The accompaniment is a cacophonous jangle of xylephone instrument and wood block percussion. I'd hesitate to call it music, but the shadows are neat. The puppet master is able to vary the distance of each puppet in relation to the screen causing subtle alterations of shape and opacity. All in all a fascinating artform but in some ways challenging to the senses.
It's early but I'm pooped. Gonna go crash. See what tomorrow brings.
Chuck's outta commission so I journey forth in search of a tourist information post. I intend to purchase tickets for some dance performances. Apparently the Balinese rock some fly moves.
Along the way I stop for photography sessions of the manifold temples interspersed among galleries and shops. Words can't do them justice so g'hed an' check the pix y'all.
Later Chuck is up so we stroll down to the Sacred Monkey Forest. It's a shocking contrast to the tightly packed city. Here it's all sprawling jungle with numerous statuary depicting Hindu Gods. And monkeys. Whole lotta monkeys, jus' doin' they thang without a care in the world. On the grounds is an elaborate temple that proves picture worthy. Such a mysterious place.
Later we attend a performance of Wayang Kulit, (skin puppets.) Cut-outs from tanned buffalo hide, intricately stenciled, depicting characters from Hindu epics. A screen is hanging in front of a torch whose light illuminates the translucent sheet. The flat figures are held up in front of the light, casting shadow and silhouette alike. Sticks attached to hands with jointed arms allow for articulate movement. The show proves confounding at best. The accompaniment is a cacophonous jangle of xylephone instrument and wood block percussion. I'd hesitate to call it music, but the shadows are neat. The puppet master is able to vary the distance of each puppet in relation to the screen causing subtle alterations of shape and opacity. All in all a fascinating artform but in some ways challenging to the senses.
It's early but I'm pooped. Gonna go crash. See what tomorrow brings.
Tuesday, September 04, 2012
8/14/2012 Endless Day
Ugh. Just pulled an all day transit session. Such days always leave me flubber-blasted. Woke up early morn on the river, chugged our way to the docks at Kumai, a harrowing taxi ride through the rough streets of Kalimantan. Shitty airport in P.Bun, cramped quarters aboard KalStar, confusing hussle through user unfriendly Soekarno-Hatta International in muggy ass Jakarta. Flight over Java where popcorn clouds drape majestic volcanoes. Sun sinks low as we approach Bali. Butter popcorn clouds. Taxi to Ubud (Oo-Boo'd) in hot Bali night. A riviting statue of Arjuna driving his chariot and horses. His opponent, a frightening demon looms menacingly, clawed feet grasping horses heads.
All the way up to Ubud stone carver studio workshops abound. How can so many remain competitive? Who needs all those sculptures?
Chuck an I luck out. A gorgeous hotel has a double room available. We splurge a bit so my poor brother can rest. He's been spewing fluids out his nether end. I ramble around the city at night. Too dark for photography but holy shit there's a ton of fly Hindu architecture. Sweet cafés abound that appeal to the plethora of tourists. Too many honkies. I am excited to explore tomorrow but exhausted from the day's displacement. Once more to bed, my dear brothers, once more.
All the way up to Ubud stone carver studio workshops abound. How can so many remain competitive? Who needs all those sculptures?
Chuck an I luck out. A gorgeous hotel has a double room available. We splurge a bit so my poor brother can rest. He's been spewing fluids out his nether end. I ramble around the city at night. Too dark for photography but holy shit there's a ton of fly Hindu architecture. Sweet cafés abound that appeal to the plethora of tourists. Too many honkies. I am excited to explore tomorrow but exhausted from the day's displacement. Once more to bed, my dear brothers, once more.
Monday, September 03, 2012
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