Monday, September 03, 2012

8/12/2012 Deep In The Jungle

We're treated to a delicious breakfast before reeling in anchor.  The morning proves bright and the white noise of chugging engine soon has me sawing logs.  I love the gentle sway of the rocking boat.  It soothes me into slumber.  I awaken to our craft veering off from the main river that forms the park's boundary, off into the park.  Deeper into the jungle...

Up until now our highway has been brown and opaque with silt, allegedly runoff from a silica mine upriver.  A ways up this tributary functioning as our current passage the water begins to run clear, though oddly a deep amber.  Everything below the surface is stained cola brown as if peering through a river of root beer (just imagine!)  A giant turtle laboriously drags his heavily shelled body over the bank and into the depths.  If only that were the sweet nectar my eyes perceive.  Surely I would join him.

Our boat docks again, this time at Camp Leakey, named after the infamous archeologist known for having discovered Lucy in Africa, and tutoring Jane Goodall.  The camp was given its name by Dr. Biruté Gladikas, another of Leakey's students and a local hero for her extensive work regarding the Forest People.  Here we are joined by a Spanish couple, David and Alba, who couldn't make the initial launch yesterday.

Seems the Orangutan in this camp are more comfortable with humans.  Several of them laze about on the board walks leading in from the docks.  The Orangutan move slow but deliberately.  One almost grabs me with her leathery hand as I pass.  I have to slap it away as I skirt her grasp.

Again we are taken for a short hike around camp before feeding time.  The jungle is lovely and dense with new growth.  Seems the park was logged in the recent past as none of the trees stand too tall, or thick for that matter.  Feeding time proved adventurous.  The last camp had more activity and more foliage for the feeders to be active on.  However the dominate male of this camp was a bit of a sly devil.  After stuffing his wide face full of 'nanners he lumbered down the platform steps and surged towards the crowd.  Tourists scattered, fearful the massive beast meant to harm.  In reality he was determined to mate, scrambling into the trees and hooting after females already burdened with clinging babies.  He didn't catch any, not that day at least.  But considering the number of children seen it's safe to assume he gets his.

It begins to drizzle.  Orangutans in trees tear leafy branches from their trunks to form makeshift umbrellas.  Eventually they scatter, seeking more formidable shelter.  Tourists vacate in turn.

Once again we dine on board, this time with our new companions.  Turns out David is a doctor.  He stares down my throat at my swollen gland and decides I'm in need of an anti-inflammatory agent.  He scoffs at my offer of payment as any doctor would.  None-the-less I feel a slight tinge of guilt.  How often does a doctor get asked to work for free whilst vacationing abroad?

Hunker down again.  Doctor's pills are strong.  I wake up refreshed and ready for days new promise.

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