Alarm kicks off at 5am and we scramble to finalize preparation. I quickly gobble the remaining food in the fridge so that I may safely leave it unplugged. Chuck showers, we cut out the lights and we're off. Hustle to the bus stop. Glad we made it. The original plan was to get out to Jakarta and spend the night but this way is cheaper. Requires an early start but overall a much more effective plan. Would've been a doozy if we missed that bus though.
Rest of the journey went smoothly. We landed in Pangkalan Bun (Pahng-ka-lan Boon) at about a quarter to eleven. Our guide picked us up immediately and we were off to the docks at Kumai to board our Klotok (houseboat.) Six hours after taking foot and we're chugging away down river, how surreal.
Hours of putting along and all we can see is mangrove palms. It's a bit daunting, seeming to extend for miles beyond shore. What a mess to have to walk through. Good thing we're onna boat.
The support staff is doing a bang-up job serving us like royalty. They fix us meals suitable to Chuck's vegan diet and still quite scrumptious. He's lucked out that tempeh is common in these parts. Proper vegan fare. We feel awkward that the crew always disappear below decks as if we're some kind of colonial-style assholes that can't stand the sight of our hosts. We'd be more than happy if they'd join us, but...well, they designed the tour, so...
On our way to the first stop we spot some local residents in shoreside trees. Long tail monkeys show off their acrobatics while dick-faced proboscis monkeys feed on high branch leaves. The boat pulls over to accomodate photography. Onwards we putt.
Eventually we dock at our first stop, Camp Harapan. The ranger's quarters and information bothes stand stilted above the poor, sandy soil. Ahead the forests looms, inviting passage and promising encounters with the enigmatic Orangutan (a'ight, lemme breakit down like this: Orang=person, Hutan=forest, ergo Orangutan means Forest Person or Person of the Forest. Got it?)
We have about an hour before feeding time, so we ask Edi our guide to lead us on a hike. It's easy enough, a clear path over flat ground, nothing challenging. Edi shows us a magic trick. In his palm he reveals a writhing leaf! 'Swounds! A real magician never shows his tricks. Edi shows the strange creature beneath, responsible for his trickery. An ant bearing twin spines sprouting from his hind quarters that Edi has impaled the leaf upon. Neat trick.
Somewhere in the forest someone or something is hooting. It's feeding time. We high tail it to the feeding platform where the rangers have dumped heaps of bananas and about a half dozen orangutan congregate to gorge themselves. Tourists mull about, flashing photos and chattering about every ape movement. I can't blame them, I'm doing the same, but it frustrates me. I feel as if I'm exploiting the poor beasts.
We've come to Tanjung Puting (Gulf of Nipple, as far as I can interpret) in south Kalimantan (the Indonesian portion of Borneo.) A 500 hectare park set up by the government decades ago, it serves as an orangutan research park and rehabilitation sanctuary. Over the years a great deal of research has been and continues to be conducted in regards to the lifestyle and habitat needs of this rare ape. Many that were held in captivity are being reintroduced into the wild. They've become used to humans from their previous life, hence the need for regular feeding sessions. My understanding is the intention is to eventually phase this process out, at which point the once captive will become wild and free. Despite its awkward nature I am glad to have witnessed this before they return to wild entirely.
After the apes have eaten their fill they swing off into the jungle and it's time for us to return to ship. Again the motor chugs and we float upstream, eyes out for shoreside primates. Later the crew ties our vessel to some sturdy branches and the engine is killed. Darkness falls. The stars emerge. Dinner is served. Mattresses are rolled out, mosquito nets unfurled and hung in place. Chuck beds down quickly while I stay up, staring at starry sky, with only candle and sore throat to accompany me. Finally the flame winks out. To bed.
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