As planned we visited the Elephant Cave. Perhaps at one time it was a dignified place but now it's choked with tourists such as myself. Everyone wants a slice of the paradise pie. I'm amazed to find the grounds sprawling. A dirt trail leads away from the temple complex, skirting a ravine that falls away sharply into a river below. The trail winds its way down to said river, affording extraordinary views of an ethereal quality. I wish to explore more but time is of the essence. I shall have to return some day.
Back at the temple's name sake there's no way to bear witness to the sacred space without squirming through throngs of honkies. The sanctity is tainted with the sweat of infidels mingling with dense incense, pungent in confined space. The cave is carved out with typical Balinese finesse, yet time has eroded statues inside into near ambiguity. The atmosphere felt so wrong I couldn't be bothered to stay long.
Our driver for the day ferried us to Padang Bei, a port town promising passage to Lombok. Originally I believed there were ferries available to the Gili Islands, as it turned out exorbitant fast boats were the only choice for that destination. We opted for the ferry to Lembar instead, around twenty times cheaper. In the long run I'm not sure if this was the wiser choice. The ferry took five hours, getting dark as we arrived in the dismal hole that is Lembar. "Tourist Services" accosted us with outlandish vacation packages that we had no need for. Drivers quoted absurd prices for travel to Singgigi a beach town that holds more promise. We were obstinate, walking away from the scene in disgust. Finally a driver agreed to half the original asking price and we were on our way.
We're parked in this crappy hotel that has seen better days over looking the beach from the inland bluffs. Tomorrow we venture forth seeking information about hiking Gunung Rinjani, Indonesia's second highest volcano and home to an impressive crater lake. Afterwards we hope to go snorkeling.
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