Been a bit negligent as of late....sorry 'bout that.
Morning after bungalow was a whip about Lombok. I'm only now beginning to understand just how small this island is. The plan was to spend the night in/around Kuta on the south beach. However, when we got there the sky was overcast and there wasn't much for snorkeling. The community has begun to build up accommodation for tourists. Loads of beach bungalows, surf shops and sea grub available. Probably a nice spot to chill if you are a surfer in search of a few day's respite. I'm no surfer and haven't budgeted the time/effort for such pursuits. Some other time.
So, a change of plans. To the North! and west. We stop off in a traditional Sasak village for a brief tour. The houses are grass-thatched with a special flooring of buffalo dung and rice husks. Forms a sort of smooth cement you might easily mistake for common concrete. Quite innovative to be honest. Allegedly it keeps the interior cool and miraculously repels mosquitos. In the back and raised a few tiers are the daughter's quarters. They are kept locked to deter impoverished suitors. Around here a new wife is worth about two or three buffalo ( a significant investment, that. Roughly sixteen hundred dollars!) For those that don't wish to pay abduction is the preferred option.
North. Further north still. Back through Singgigi once more, where the beach looks better from afar. Stopped off at a cute little Hindu Pura, good for a few snaps of the camera. Then off to Bangsal to catch a ferry to Gili Trawangan. I figured there'd be fewer peeps this time around. Seems as though the party hasn't quite finished yet. Fatigue sets in. Short nap at the hotel and then off for a stroll. Don't recall the road having bricks this far down the strip. Somebody's been busy since August. Late lunch at a beach bar. I order the special herb pizza so clearly advertised on the curbside chalkboard. I'll just say it was satiating and leave it at that.
I order up a five hour snorkeling trip for the next day (we're talking the 5th here.) Coral in the area is right large but bearing subdued colors, like fall fashion. More earthy tones, seventies palette, browns and orange ochres, dull yellow. I notice my diving ability improving. More confident. Longer dives, handling the pressure a bit better at depth. Never expected this.
The tour stops off at Gili Air for an hour lunch so I take a stroll, just to check out the situation. From what I can see things are much the same as Trawangan, only a bit more laid back, less commercial. If I ever come back I'd probably choose here over there.
Last boat to Bangsal leaves at four. Hustle to take my leave, once again. I really need to return with some flow and some free time. Drive back south to Lembar for four hours of ferry. Roll into Bali at the stroke of midnight. Bandit style. Alexy takes us to his friend's house but at this point I have little energy for making social. Immediately to bed.
That brings us to today (the 6th), which was a slow tour of Bali's brilliant south coast. First stop was Pantai Pandawa, a weird government project where loads of cliff have been blasted out to bring traffic to the otherwise inaccessible beach there. The manufactured canyon bears spaces blown out of the rock to provide a home for elaborate statues. At the shore, seaweed farmers ply their trade amongst rapidly multiplying tourist shit. The place has only been open for two weeks I'm told, so many haven't yet discovered the enormous surf. Good lawd! whadda surf.
Next stop Pantai Padang-Padang which made an appearance in Julia Roberts' latest venture Love, Truth, and Sumfin Else. Similar situation as last only more packed with bules. Afterward on to Pantai Ulu Watu which was more of a series of cafés built high over tidal caves. The sound of the surf crashing through caverns below is much like thunder. When breaks collide hard enough, reverberations are felt through table where we took our noon time meal.
Last stop, the legendary Pura Ulu Watu, dedicated to protecting the south. Brilliant surf far below yields stunning opportunities for prime photography. Just before sunset a performance of Kechak, a strange bit of dance/ritual with a chorus of men replacing musical accompaniment. Some ancient story from Hindu myth involving monkeys (both red and white), an abduction, a battle, and the reunion of lovers separated by evil forces. The chorus chants "Chak-chak-chak-ke'chak" in rising and falling volume throughout the hour long performance. Right glad I got to witness this as it was one of the dances I missed last trip to Ubud. Fascinating despite the loads of tourists at the periphery.
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