Yesterday (the 7th) ends up being somewhat of a temple hopper with Lexy's friend's house acting as a sort of base camp. There's a monument in town built to commemorate the struggle for the independence of the Balinese people. It's huge, built of black volcanic rock in the Balinese Hindu style, complete with the likeness of several Hindu deities gracing the dark spires. The imposing structure is the stronghold of every villainous despot found in any given cheesy fantasy film created in the eighties. I love it.
On the way to Padangbai we encounter Pura Goa Lawah (bat cave temple), typical Balinese awesomeness, with bats! Sure enough part of the temple is built right into a cave housing thousands of squeaking chiroptera (hand-wing, only this word is Greek.) Guano amasses everywhere. Drips of dried shit cling to ornamental cloth within. I'm just confounded. Tried to venture in a bit but they started buzzing my head and I just said, "Fuck it." Around the back there's a sculpture representing Naga, dragon-snake. His tail winds back and around, tracing steps to another temple above. Presumably this represents the giant wyrm that lives in the cavern and feeds on the flying vermin within.
Brief stop at a beach with massive surf. High tide rolls in within the short time of our visit. Massive swells are battering the surrounding cliffs. An astounding display of natural power. I'm thinking Tidal Turbines to capture this energy would be a good investment.
The rest of the day is rendered unto roadtrip as the weather proves inclement. We wind our way through high mountain passes, past shanties and villagers clinging to the steep edge. According to Alexy the region suffers from poor soils and extensive dry seasons, yielding short growing sessions and little more than cashews as the viable cash crop. People of the area have been notoriously poor until recently when tax revenue from tourist activity in Ahmed beyond has begun to trickle through.
Ahmed was as one might expect, loads of stylish bungalows catering to the beach bum set. Perched high on cliffs overlooking the massive surf, each place offered massages, snorkeling gear, surf boards for rent, and promises of SCUBA diving adventures. Good to know this place exists. Again I'm singin' "return with money and time."
Back inland we pay a visit to a Water Palace (I forget the name) one of a few in the area. A variety of Hindu beasties barf water into pools populated with enormous koi. Though not entirely original the whole water exiting an orifice motif continues to work through the ages. Silly little place really. Quite the imagination these Hindi have.
Rain begins to threaten our passage. We traverse several risky road wash outs and Lexy is getting nervous. Through darkness and deluge we return to our homestay. The following morning (today, the 8th) continues to produce flood conditions, and my bowels are leaking fluids. These complications and the need for Lexy to service his vehicle grounds us for the day. My flight out is Saturday, the 12th, in the afternoon. With effectively three and a half days remaining I hope to get some trekking out the way, see some waterfalls, snorkel some more, and finally conquer a volcano before taking my leave.
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